Dressed in a Dress - The Sewing Journal

No exploration of dart manipulation is complete without addressing the back bodice, which is often overlooked. This post delves into the importance of back waist and shoulder darts for enhanced fit and design. With detailed explanations, calculations, and step-by-step tutorials, you’ll gain practical knowledge to customize patterns, eliminate fabric disruptions, and achieve precise upper back fit—all while honing your patternmaking skills.

This long-awaited post delves into single-dart designs like the French, waist, and mid-shoulder dart. We’ll uncover their connection to two-dart designs and see how dart relocation influences fit and aesthetics. We’ll gain practical knowledge to customise patterns through theory, calculations, and detailed illustrated tutorials. And the little homework will give you some extra practice.

As a fundamental part of dart manipulation, the pivotal method is a practical foundation for understanding the patternmaking process. In this post, we’ll explore darts from a different angle, shifting from the slash method to the pivotal one to efficiently relocate darts in two-dart designs by rotating instead of slashing and taping.

After three previous theoretical posts, we are finally ready for practice. At first, we'll learn about the most common dart manipulations, as they form the base for more complicated ones in the future. Why do we choose some designs over the other? What should one do to transform the basic darts into the ones you need? You can find the answers here. So, prepare your pencils, pens, rulers and paper and we are ready to start.